It’s been a bumper year for new regional restaurants backed by big money, from the Three Blue Ducks two-hatter near Bowral to Shannon Bennetts’ attempt to “disrupt” fine dining in Byron Bay at Feu. But this award isn’t for the most expensive build, it’s for a restaurant forging deep connections to its region, while delivering a dining experience to build a long weekend around.
Troy Rhoades-Brown has championed Hunter Valley producers for the past 17 years at Muse and, more recently, realised a long-held dream to expand his own home garden so it can inform the six-course tasting menu.
Indeed, your first course is titled “Troy’s Garden”: a cornucopia that might feature fresh purple daikon, scarlet turnip, breakfast radish, ivory kale, purple oxalis and heirloom peas spritzed with roasted bunya-shell vinegar (plus pecan-shell-smoked salmon gribiche for pickled-zucchini dipping).
Next, a claypot holding speckled blue grouper, its loin rolled around mousse made from the tail, belly and black truffle, while the fish bones and head are smoked for a dashi poured over koshihikari rice at the table.
Everyone on the floor is wholly invested and informed, and local wines are championed with a “Ladies of the Hunter” pairing and cellar-door map on departure.
With a dining room refresh of warm timbers, new tables and leather upholstery underway, Muse is set to be one of the state’s most special night outs for a long time to come.
Good to know: Sommelier Melinda Beswick plays all the hits, but also runs a Ladies of the Hunter pairing to spotlight women winemakers in the Valley.
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
Last visited: August 2026