For three days in October, a particular vision of America took over a modern two-story building in central Tokyo. It was Ralph Lauren’s vision of America, and this was the first-ever PoloFest. The free, ticketed event was part museum to Ralph Lauren and his Polo brand, with images and quotes from Mr. Lauren adorning the walls; part marketplace, where vintage Polo clothes were sold; and part symposium consisting of live interviews with people in the Ralph Lauren orbit. It was also a celebration of American menswear; guys dripping in Polo hung out in the courtyard of the building all weekend long sipping Ralph’s blend of coffee. I was there as both an attendee—I bought a few hundred dollars worth of vintage Polo—and a participant, having conducted two live interviews. (I was not paid to be part of it, although Ralph Lauren took care of my travel and accommodations.)
The most striking aspect was the international community of people—young and old—who love Polo. I heard about one couple, for instance, who flew all the way from Detroit for the event. David Lauren, the company’s vice chairman and son of Ralph, took frequent laps around the festival engaging in a version of retail politics: shaking hands, asking questions, and posing for countless selfies.
Attendees arrived decked out in enviable Polo.
The clothes for the marketplace came from nearly two dozen vintage sellers from around the world. Some of it was what you might expect: navy-blue blazers with gold buttons, oxfords with the signature pony, ties. But most of the clothes you either hadn’t seen in years—since perhaps your dad or older brother wore them in the ’80s and ’90s—or never knew existed, like Polo cowboy boots. In addition to Polo and Polo Sport, there were long-defunct sub-brands like Polo Country and Polo Sportsman, which fetched some of the highest prices. I bought a perfectly faded denim button-down from 1990, a Polo Sport T-shirt I definitely wore in the ’90s, a tie, and a well-worn plaid flannel shirt.
There was also a merch shop selling PoloFest shirts, posters, skate decks, and oxfords and blazers made specially for the occasion. I never made it into the shop because the line was always too long.
Some goodies from the Snow Beach and Stadium collections.
On the second floor of the venue was the site of the live interviews. I kicked off the weekend on Friday morning when I interviewed Neil Zarama, a Native-American silversmith behind the brand Whirling Log and Arrow as well as a chopper maker (as in the motorcycles), whose work was part of Ralph Lauren’s Authentic Maker program. Other interviews included Polo collectors, people with great personal style, and Tyson Beckford, the supermodel who helped define Ralph Lauren in the ’90s.
Beckford among the Polo.
On Sunday morning, I interviewed André 3000, one half of the hip-hop duo Outkast whose 2023 solo effort was a mind-bending flute recording. He’s also a longtime fan and appreciator of Ralph Lauren. We talked fashion, as well as music (he said he is absolutely considering a return to hip-hop), aging, and Japan (he said he wants to die and be buried in the country).
Tyson Beckford and André 3000.
And why was PoloFest—a celebration of a uniquely American brand—held in Japan anyway? Partly because this year marks the 50th anniversary of Ralph Lauren opening his first store in Tokyo. (Next year is the 60th anniversary of the brand’s founding.) But David Lauren told me the event was, in fact, 20 years in the making. During a visit to the country in the early 2000s, David learned that the Japanese were collecting and re-selling Ralph Lauren clothes. Indeed, there are highly curated secondhand stores in Tokyo that sell nothing but the brand. The company considered opening its own vintage shop in the city, he said, but other projects took priority. He never forgot about Japan’s abiding love of Ralph Lauren, though. On the occasion of the 50th anniversary, they decided to host a festival dedicated to the brand.
A Polo Bear decked out in Polo Sport? But of course.
Will there be another PoloFest? The company isn’t saying yes or no. But the droves of enthusiastic and stylishly dressed people who turned up in Japan sure seems like a sign that the company could stage many more.