Frequently asked questions
What are the different types of peptides?
Most formulas feature a combination of peptides, so you don’t necessarily need to worry about how each functions, but it is worth familiarizing yourself with the different types of peptides when looking at ingredients.
Signal peptides, like Matrixyl 3000, work by sending a message to the cells to boost production of proteins like collagen and elastin, which ultimately helps firm the skin. These are the most commonly used peptides in skin care. You’ll also find synthetic peptides like argireline, which Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC, says help relax muscles and improve the appearance of wrinkles, smoothing the skin (a.k.a. the Botox peptide). Carrier peptides (which include copper peptides) help to strengthen the barrier and stimulate collagen by delivering minerals to the skin, he says; they function similarly to signal peptides in that they improve skin firmness and soften texture. Finally, there are growth factor peptides to help with wound healing and skin regeneration; they also encourage collagen production (noticing a theme here?), making them particularly adept at antiaging.
What do peptide serums do?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks our skin uses to make collagen and elastin. “Because we slowly lose and damage our collagen and elastin fibers as we age, many skin care peptides are designed to improve skin structure, enhance hydration, and encourage the production of new collagen and elastin fibers,” says Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. This is what makes them a great addition to any antiaging skin-care routine—they help support collagen production.
Do peptide serums actually work?
With regular use, peptide serums are worth the investment. “Peptides can be applied to the skin twice a day under makeup and sunscreen,” says Howard Sobel, MD, a clinical attending cosmetic dermatologic surgeon at NYC’s Lenox Hill Hospital. With continued use, peptides help tell cells to “act younger,” thus, making fine lines and wrinkles less apparent.
Do peptides act like Botox?
No, they can’t be compared to Botox. “Botox (and neurotoxins like it) are very unique—they essentially weaken the muscle and prevent contraction, so that expression lines can fade,” says Dr. Nazarian. There’s no topical ingredient that can fight muscle contraction in this same way, she explains. Peptides can soften some of the lines of expression by plumping and hydrating the area, but they don’t actually work or garner results in the way an injectable would.
What other skin care ingredients pair well with peptides?
Dr. Engelman suggests pairing peptides with ingredients that help enhance their benefits, such as vitamin C, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. She also recommends layering a peptide serum with a good face moisturizer that has ceramides in it to help lock in moisture and hydration, and strengthen the skin barrier. That being said, all five dermatologists we spoke to warned against mixing peptides with harsh exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs, which may counteract the benefits of peptides. You can, however, pair peptides with retinol—in fact, this can help mitigate some of the irritation that comes with retinol use.
How we evaluated peptide serums
We evaluated peptide serums by looking at their ingredients, texture and efficacy. The best ones had multi-peptide complexes, or clinically tested peptides like matrixyl 3000, collagen peptides, or copper peptides to help smooth and soften skin. They also had other ingredients that played well alongside the peptide ingredients, like antioxidants to brighten and protect, exfoliators like PHA to soften texture, niacinamide to reduce redness, or PDRN to strengthen the skin barrier. Our hero serums also had lightweight, non-sticky textures that didn’t pill or leave residue behind after application. Finally, the picks that made our list had noticeable results immediately after use—our skin looked a lot firmer, brighter, and bouncier after incorporating these into our routine!
Meet the experts
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, board-certified dermatologist in NYC
- Howard Sobel, MD, clinical attending cosmetic dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital in NYC
- Dendy Engelman, MD, board-certified dermatologist based in NYC
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC