Updated ,first published
Omakase by Prefecture 48
Japanese$$$$
This venue is included in Good Food’s 100 Essential Restaurants list.
You expect the “gunkan maki”, or battleship sushi, to be good at the omakase counter at Prefecture 48, a converted heritage-listed warehouse with no less than four restaurants. Chef Akira Horikawa spent 15 years honing his skills at Ginza Kyubey, the legendary Tokyo honten where this style of rice wrapped in nori was invented. And it is good. It’s very, very good.
Horikawa serves his gunkan with Hokkaido sea urchin, cold and creamy, and the perfect foil for gently warmed rice and crisp seaweed. It’s an outstanding bite in a tour de force of a tasting menu by a richly experienced chef with innate understanding of balance and rhythm. Horikawa’s nigiri, using classic chutoro and otoro tuna alongside specialties such as coral trout and scampi, are outstanding.
But his zensai, or appetisers, are where the true genius lies, varied and yet complementary, subtle and yet memorable. Lightly coal-grilled imperador, say, served with dashi flavoured with just kombu and clams. This gem of an omakase has been somewhat flying under the radar, though that surely won’t last.
Best for: The ultimate treat-yourself experience.
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
Last visited: April 2026
More: