Updated ,first published
Avia
European$$
If you know, you know. And now you do, too.
There’s a small neighbourhood bistro at the end of Taylor Square that feels worlds away from the bright lights and tobacconists of Oxford Street. The greetings are warm, the bentwood chairs are lived-in, and the weeknight waiter knows precisely which Australian red pairs best with a forkful of reginette, the ruffle-edged pasta twirled with rich, nicely seasoned oxtail ragu. This is Avia, and its Sydney-casual approach to European dining has broad appeal, from candlelit dates to 10pm digestifs.
Dishes are understated but clever, mostly sustainable, made from scratch. There are cheese curds, creamy and dusted in malt, heaped alongside coffee-roasted pumpkin for a starter with dessert-like decadence; buttery wedges of snapper tail with crisp skin and lively tomato and grapefruit picante; and an unexpected joy, the mixed-leaf salad, balanced and satisfyingly textural with strawberry vinaigrette and slivered almonds. Come for the lemon meringue pie alone, reinterpreted into a glossy mass of just-scorched meringue.
Good to know: Visit between 5pm and 6.30pm from Tuesday to Saturday for aperitivo hour, when all snacks are under $15.
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
Last visited: June 2026
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