By Dr M’zée Fula NGENGE *
GABORONE – Sunday, October 25, 2026) — The first time I set foot on Botswana soil in the 1980s, Quett Masire was president, the capital had barely shed its rural skin, and I truly believed that I understood my region as well as my continent. I had traveled widely, seen bustling metropolises, attended every Olympic Games since Moscow in 1980. But I must admit that nothing quite prepared me for the quiet revolution of dignity I would witness by sharing my thoughts today, which is a revolution that would completely reshape my understanding of what it means to be human.
Gaborone back then, felt less like a capital city, and more like a family reunion that I was not only invited to, but where I always felt welcome. With only a million people in the entire country around that time, It was interesting for me to see strangers voluntarily greeting strangers. What I quickly realized was, the hospitality that I am speaking of should not ever be viewed as a performance, but as an actual birthright. I happened to make a trip to Gaborone when Pope John Paul II arrived on his ten-day African tour, and when he arrived in Botswana, I watched him stoop to his knees to kiss the airport tarmac with the same reverence I would soon learn that permeates every aspect of Batswana life. When I departed Sir Seretse Khama International Airport for the Seoul Olympics in September 1988, I carried with me something I could not yet name. That something had a name, and it would take me decades to fully understand it: “Botho“
I did not have the opportunity to meet President Masire during my first visit, but I did meet someone whose influence would later prove to be equally profound: Festus Mogae, then Permanent Secretary to the President, would become my devoted and most unassuming mentor until his passing, and from him, it was where I learned that Botho was not merely a word, but a practice of humanity, humility, respect, and cultural rootedness all woven into the fabric of daily existence.
“Reach out whenever you return,” he would often tell me. It was not a polite dismissal, but an open door, and I would walk through it many times over the following decades.
In 1998, I returned to Gaborone to witness U.S. President Bill Clinton‘s official visit. First Lady Obebile Masire‘s graciousness as a hostess revealed hospitality as a national art form. Around this time, a young man I remember as André de Jong was nice enough to demand that I join his small group on a of tour of the Mokolodi Nature Preserve. Walking among the wildlife and breathing the same air as the acacia trees, I must confess that Botswana began to feel like home.
But, it was Mma Chiepe, the formidable diplomat and stateswoman who became the Honorary Chairman of the AFRICAN DIAMOND COUNCIL (ADC) in 1999. It was her who effectively unlocked the heart of Botswana for me. She was determined to teach me about the “Kgotla”, and I learned to stop thinking of it as a “meeting” or a “court” in the Western sense. It is not an actual or physical place that you attend, but more of a place that you visit. I am referring to a living institution where the community sits in a circle, not so much to face power, but to collectively become it.
“Kgosi ke kgosi ka batho,” are the words she would often whisper to me each time as I hugged her goodbye. What she was saying to me was that “a chief is a chief by the people.” For me, the words carried the weight of generations, and it was in those moments that I took time to understand that authority in Botswana is never absolute. I learned that it is contingent upon the community’s continued support, its participation, its willingness to speak without interruption as well as to listen without surrender.
I would say that the Kgotla is Botswana’s oldest classroom in democracy and I would even go as far as to say that it is also the most human court in existence. It teaches us that community is not a fact that we inherit, but more of a practice that we renew each time we gather. Here, fundamental questions are wisely asked about how to live together well, and it is also where, every voice must be heard before any decision can belong to the people.
I am sure that what I have witnessed in Botswana is not theory, but practice. “Botho” is visible in the simplest interactions, which can be in the form of a greeting before the question, the respect shown to elders, the way neighbours appear with food and labour, particularly when a family faces loss. During difficult times, I have watched both, relatives and strangers alike, contribute money, companionship, and presence. This is unity that the entire continent would do well to study and eventually follow.
Until now, the Kgotla system remains resilient and relevant, connecting traditional leadership with contemporary community life. It is a platform for dialogue, consultation, and the peaceful resolution of concerns. Under President Masire’s leadership, and those who followed him, I can attest that the tribal system was never an obstacle to national development. I can even go as far as to admit or make the argument that it ended up constructing a foundation for it. For those who may not know, this is, in my opinion, part of what took Botswana from among Africa’s poorest to among its most prosperous. For me, I can honestly say that progressive thinking, intellect, and humility, are all rooted in what I now know as “Botho”.
As years went by, I was beginning to see that Botswana’s cultural tapestry is richer than any single thread. Different Tswana groups, such as the Bangwato, Bangwaketse, and Bakgatla, do impressively coexist with Bakalanga, San communities, Wayeyi, Hambukushu, Baherero, and others. Each brings distinct histories, languages, artistic traditions, and relationships with the land. The cultural knowledge of the Okavango waterways differs profoundly from traditions born in the drier Kalahari. This diversity means that no single language, dance, or custom can claim to represent every Motswana.
Yet, music and dance bring people together with remarkable power. Dances like setapa, which originates from the Bangwaketse in Kanye village, as well as phathisi, and borankana, does a wonderful job displaying coordination, energy, and skill that I am further convinced make Botswana’s traditional performers Africa’s finest. I have watched them for over a decade, at weddings, cultural celebrations, and community gatherings, and each performance carries humour, social observation, and deep storytelling. I can tell you that the audience is not passive. They clap, they participate and they irresistibly become part of the rhythm, just like I do.
When I think of the food in Botswana, it is what I would refer to as hospitality made tangible. Seswaa, for example, is beef that is cooked slowly until very tender, then pounded, which is not only a real undertaking, but speaks of uncommon patience. Bogobe, which is porridge from sorghum or maize, can be defined as comfort itself. Morogo, are those edible leafy greens that I have become addicted to and love so much. Not only are they good, but are uniquely prepared in countless ways, so much so that they have become one of my absolute favourites. Dikgobe, is another one of my preferred dishes that combines beans with grains, and lastly, I cannot fail to mention Madila, which is a thick and creamy yogurt that offers me the tang of fermented milk
Going a little deeper in the area of cuisine, I must say that there are places like Botswana Craft, a remarkable Gaborone restaurant, where I have watched the local dishes evolve over the years. Its menu moves seamlessly between seswaa and bogobe, which are contemporary plates that are built around Morogo, Sorghum, and dried fish. Every visit feels like a small update on what local cooks are doing now and teaches us how traditions are being reinterpreted without ever losing their actual roots. I not only leave fed and satisfied, but oriented, with a clearer sense of Botswana’s living culinary culture.
What I have witnessed over the years at larger family events, is that cooking becomes collective, highlighting the efforts of relatives and neighbours working together, and strengthening bonds that stretch across generations.
In a country where healthy cattle outnumber people, these animals connect livelihood, family, and identity. These large, ruminant animals have historically provided food, income, and agricultural support, but it is also important to know that their meaning runs deeper. They store wealth, certainly, but they also carry social and emotional significance.
The cattle post — the moraka — is where knowledge about livestock care, responsibility, and the land passes between generations. And in Bogadi, the customary marriage arrangement negotiated between families, cattle recognise, not just the union of two people, but the relationship between entire families.
Weddings and funerals in Botswana are collective events that I rarely say no to. Marriage involves introductions, discussions, preparations, and celebrations that extend far beyond the couple. Funerals bring extensive community support that highlight relatives, neighbours, and friends contributing food, labour, money, and companionship. These unavoidable occasions reveal how family obligations extend beyond the immediate household, even as customs differ between communities, religions, and individual families.
Botswana’s woven baskets are rather tasteful and aesthetic. My mother, particularly loves those from northwestern communities, which represent artistry combined with practical knowledge. Many weavers use prepared plant fibres and carefully controlled techniques to create detailed patterns that are inspired by animals, landscapes, and everyday experiences. These baskets are both, useful objects and works of art, preserving knowledge, expressing creativity, and supporting livelihoods in ways most countries have forgotten.
The National Museum and Art Gallery holds a special place in my heart and is a testament to Botswana’s commitment to honouring its heritage while embracing the future. I have attended several events there and each time, I have left the venue with positive and incredibly vivd memories.
Whenever I hear Setswana, it reminds me of how beautiful the language really is. Since it is widely spoken alongside English and other local languages, it is important to learn a simple greeting like “Dumela”, given that it offers an introduction to the importance of acknowledging another person, before moving into business or conversation. Proverbs, stories, praise poetry, and humour effectively communicate lessons about responsibility, wisdom, relationships, and behaviour. It is important for me to highlight the fact that elders play the most important role in passing on this knowledge.
Even in 2026, the culture continues to evolve in a variety of ways. Botswana’s cultural landscape now includes contemporary music, fashion, literature, business, religious life, and urban experiences that the youth have not only claimed, but have made it exclusively theirs. Someone may work in Gaborone, maintain close ties to their home village, help at a family cattle post, and even participate in traditional celebrations. These overlapping experiences show how Batswana carry cultural connections into modern life with ease and conviction.
When I think of outside Gaborone, I see Kasane as a place of cultural pride and spiritual power. Same holds true for Molepolole, Francistown, Mogoditshane or Maun. A Motswana may see Kasane as a place where the economic benefits of natural beauty can feel out of reach, however, a foreigner sees a thrilling launchpad into the wild heart of Africa. The Okavango Delta is and will always be iconic in my eyes. Places like Chobe Game Lodge is where I often take visiting friends to witness what I have fallen in love with.
In 2017, I took time to participate in an event that was aimed at inspiring the youth to explore opportunities in entrepreneurship. Youth, I have always believed, is and will always be the best return on investment. I also invited and took part in panel discussions at the University of Botswana (UB) with a dear brother and friend of mine, who is considered to be one of the greatest sprinters and long jumpers in sports history. The event attracted around 500 young entrepreneurs and showcased the Stanford Seed initiative — two programmes in partnership with my alma mater Stanford University, aimed at developing managers and budding entrepreneurs.
It should be known that I take “Botho” with me everywhere I go. It is embedded in my DNA, and every Batswana that I have ever crossed paths is fully aware that I have always cherished it. I did not ever need to pay anyone to speak with me; I did not ever feel a need to name-drop or perform importance. I simply needed to greet, to listen, and to exhibit elevated levels of respect. I now confess that all of the doors that opened for me in Botswana were opened by “Botho“ itself.
In Botswana, it is important to know that dialogue happens with elevated levels of respect. It becomes obvious that positive energy attracts positive people, opportunities, and outcomes. This is why I keep returning to what I refer to as my second home — to show my support for this favored nation that taught me so much.
I have learned that leadership qualities matter, and that “Botho” is central to them. The same progressive thinking, intellect, and humility that built this nation from poverty to prosperity are qualities that I now look for everywhere.
This is MY Botswana. Not because I claim ownership, but because it has claimed a place in my heart. It is a country that had great success in teaching me that community is not a fact we inherit, but a practice we renew — each time we speak without interruption, listen without surrender, and greet before we ask.
For many outsiders, “Dumela” means “Hello”. But in Botswana, I know that it means so much more.
*Dr M’zée Fula NGENGE is a distinguished global economist, mining engineer, and committed Pan-Africanist, recognized among the world’s “Top 100 Most Reputable Africans.” A highly respected leader in the diamond industry, he has visited Botswana for more than four decades and will feature regularly as a special guest contributor to The Monday Chronicle. Connect to him on LinkedIn and learn more about him and his professional objectives.