Retinol is undoubtedly one of the greatest ingredient breakthroughs in skin care. The vitamin A derivative has powerful wrinkle- and texture-smoothing benefits, but too much of it or improper use can have pretty damaging effects on the skin barrier and overall skin health.
Alongside sunscreen, some form of retinol is often recommended by dermatologists, particularly for more mature skin. Milder doses also work well as a preventative ingredient in younger skin; its popularity across TikTok and other social platforms has raised the question of whether younger skin needs such a strong ingredient, and whether retinol is being overused. Derms have weighed in and offer alternatives that may be less damaging and more appropriate for an early skin care journey.
Are young people overusing retinol?
Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care, says some are. “Especially when social media makes them feel they should already be preventing wrinkles. Then they combine retinol, exfoliating toner, and acne treatments and wonder why everything burns. But retinoids can help acne, clogged pores, texture, and pigmentation, so for me it’s less about the birthday and more about the skin’s needs and appropriate use,” Kobets tells ELLE.
At what age is it safe to start using retinol?
There’s no magic age as to when it’s safe to introduce retinol into a skin care routine. What’s most important is understanding its purpose and when your skin may need it.
Board-certified dermatologist and founder of Weiser Skin MD, Dr. Jessica Weiser, says retinol can benefit teens with acne and can be a useful prejuvenation product for people in their 20s and 30s—but it’s best to use it under professional guidance. Weiser notes that in general, retinol shouldn’t be used for antiaging purposes until your 20s or even early 30s. Age isn’t the only consideration either: “For patients with sensitive skin, retinol can be irritating and cause inflammation or dermatitis,” Weiser notes.
Kobets further explains that while retinol is part of the vitamin A family called retinoids, cosmetic retinol differs from acne medications. “OTC adapalene 0.1% is labeled for acne at 12 and older; younger children need clinician guidance. That doesn’t mean every 12-year-old needs it,” says Kobets.
Without a specific concern, Kobets recommends prioritizing cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen in your routine. “Adults can consider retinol for texture, pigmentation, or fine lines; you haven’t missed a deadline by not starting at 20,” Kobets adds.
Is retinol a preventative ingredient?
Weiser and Kobets both say retinol has significant skin benefits, depending on what you’re looking to treat. “Retinol is very useful for a few purposes: collagen stimulation to prevent or soften fine lines and wrinkles and also for skin turnover and oil regulation,” Weiser describes. “In this sense, retinol can help to prevent wrinkles from worsening but cannot impact muscle movement and therefore cannot fully prevent lines and wrinkles or aging,” she clarifies.
The ingredient has been shown to support collagen and improve photodamage, although Kobets notes that prescription tretinoin has stronger evidence and OTC formulas vary in efficacy. “Acne-directed retinoids also help prevent clogged pores and breakouts,” says Kobets, adding that for sun-related changes, sunscreen, hats, and shade come first. “We don’t have evidence that children need retinol to prevent wrinkles.”
What’s the harm in overusing retinol?
Perhaps it’s no coincidence that as retinol product options increase, so have solutions for skin barrier support and restoration. “Retinol can cause dryness, flaking, irritation, and skin redness; it can weaken the skin barrier,” says Weiser. Barrier disruption and inflammation can leave dark marks.
Additionally, it can cause irritant dermatitis: redness, dryness, peeling, burning, and stinging from normally tolerated products. “Appropriate use doesn’t permanently thin skin, but pushing through irritation makes things worse. Burning, rawness, or an itchy rash shouldn’t be dismissed as ‘purging,’” Kobets cautions.
Weiser also notes that the effects of retinol are cumulative and can take months or even years to be appreciated. “Retinol can exacerbate redness, rosacea, dermatitis/eczema, and more, so it should be used with caution in sensitive and redness-prone skin. Finally, retinol causes thinning of the epidermis (top skin layer), so it should be stopped before waxing and some types of laser treatment,” Weiser advises.
What should you know before starting retinol?
Key advice from Kobets and Weiser is to start slow. They both recommend using retinol twice a week at the beginning and titrating up as tolerated. Kobets specifies starting with a pea-sized amount for the face and avoiding eyelids, nose, and mouth corners unless the product is intended there.
You’ll also want to take extra caution on the neck and chest where, as Weiser points out, there are significantly fewer sebaceous glands, so skin can become more easily irritated and dry.
How you layer in a retinol can make a difference in lowering irritation, too. “Moisturizer can go before, after, or both; initially separate exfoliating acids onto other nights. Results take weeks to months, and collagen-related changes take longer,” says Kobets.
Additionally, for sensitive skin, a sandwich technique can be used where clean skin is treated first with moisturizer, then with retinol, and then with another layer of moisturizer to sandwich the retinol between two layers of emollients.
Can you repair damage caused by overusing or improperly using retinol?
The good news is that irritation usually improves not long after you stop using a retinol product. If you do feel like your barrier is compromised and skin is more irritated or worse damage has set in, Kobets says to pause retinol, acids, and scrubs and replace them with a gentle cleanser, fragrance-free moisturizer with glycerin or ceramides, and sunscreen. A little petrolatum can help dry areas. Wait until comfortable before restarting more slowly, possibly with a different product. Swelling, blistering, crusting, or persistent irritation should be evaluated by a dermatologist. Also keep in mind that residual dark marks can take longer to fade. Weiser adds that barrier repair creams or lipid-replenishing creams can be useful.
Are there retinol alternatives that are better for younger skin?
As with any ingredient, choose based on the concern you want to address. “Healthy younger skin may only need cleansing, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can help acne, and azelaic acid can address breakouts and pigmentation, but all can irritate,” says Kobets. So, just like retinol, start slow and see how your skin responds.
If you’ve already started using retinol and want a gentler alternative, Kobets also recommends bakuchiol, a plant-derived active with some retinol-like effects. It’s not actual retinol. However, she adds a caveat: the testing of bakuchiol to treat pigment issues has been rather limited, and broader analyses haven’t established clear pigment-reducing benefit. “It’s an option for some adults who don’t tolerate retinol, not an equally proven replacement, especially for pigmentation, or something children need. Plant-derived doesn’t mean allergy- or irritation-free,” Kobets clarifies.