While things are far from rosy in the garden at SAFC (some would argue that the garden is currently on fire), I’ve found our ongoing and so far successful Europa League campaign to be a rather comforting distraction rather than a detriment. Many a Premier League side over the years has been insipid in the league, but as soon as they enter a Schengen Zone country, they suddenly remember that they are, in fact, competent professional footballers. The financial gulf between England and the rest of Europe is quite frankly ridiculous, so it’s hardly surprising, but our domestic woes shouldn’t detract too much from our promising start in the Europa League.
Our opponents for this trip were a classic European name and a powerhouse domestically, but they had struggled in their opening two fixtures, shipping a total of eight goals against Palace and Bayer Leverkusen. Those are two of the toughest opponents they could’ve faced, however, so it was crucial not to underestimate the home side and their fearsome support.
While Leiria was an incredible experience, it felt more like pre-season dialled up to 11, and it seems unlikely that it will be a typical example of our European adventures. Our fans basically had the run of the city, the police were beyond lenient, and we could bask in glorious mid-October sunshine. This time around, we braced ourselves for long queues for ticket collection, hostile Polish ultras goading us in the rain, and mandatory coach travel. In short, all the hallmarks of a real European away day. Bring it on.
Despite what sounded like a reasonable flight time of 8am, there were still insufficient public transport options to get us to Luton Airport in time, so our group was forced into an overnight stay at the airport’s Premier Inn. I have nothing against the purple budget hotel giant; in fact, they’ve proved a reliable away-day companion over the years, but I did find it hilarious when an automated “Here are the top ten things to do in Luton” email dropped into my inbox. Read the room, people.
Still, at least it meant an extra hour or so in bed and made the overpriced but mandatory airport breakfast pint taste a bit less brutal. There were plenty of bleary-eyed fans in red and white gearing up for another exciting but draining away day, and after we touched down in Poznań and eventually made it through the lengthy queue at border control, thanks to the misnamed Entry/Exit System, it was time for a taxi to the city that would be our base for two nights. Poznań very much followed the trend of other Polish cities I’ve visited over the years: clean, affordable and safe, though whether the latter would apply after the local ultras made their presence known remained to be seen.
Enjoying some unexpected sunshine, we visited the two symbolic goats of the city and patted their heads for good luck, as per local tradition, though it was unclear if this fortune would apply to us or to the home team. Having checked off the obligatory cultural activity to create the impression that we’d at least ventured away from the bars for half an hour, we enjoyed a delicious meal of sausage, relish and mash before checking into our gaff and joining the travelling fans in the main square. Just like in Leiria, the red and white army were in their element, mingling nicely with the locals (aside from one group launching quite damning allegations about the activities of someone dressed as Mike Wazowski from Monsters, Inc.).
This surreal vibe continued for the rest of the night, and a hazy blur seemed to descend over the fanbase as we returned for matchday. Sadly, the weather had turned, but there were still more than enough hostelries and Żywiec to cater for us all. There was time for a good singalong in the Czerwona Papryka bar before our group split between those who’d forked out for hospitality and those hardy souls willing to brave the bus to the away end.
The journey to the ground saw a trip down memory lane, with songs about former heroes and cult figures being belted out, alongside newer ditties for Sadiki and Talbi. There was a fairly lengthy wait for entry to the ground, but nothing outrageous, and we were able to settle into the concourse with plenty of time ahead of kick-off. The atmosphere in the stadium was nothing short of incredible, and for the first time, it felt like our European adventure was well and truly underway. Tutierov’s early header sent the away end into raptures, though the usual limbs were slightly subdued due to people not wanting to spill the pints they’d brought to their seats (take note, Mr Burnham).
The home fans continued their stunning choreography, but Sunderland were unfazed as we continued to dominate. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to add the crucial second goal, and there was an air of inevitability about the equaliser that came in the second half. A point in isolation was hardly a disaster, though, and we were reasonably content as we headed back to the city centre to carry on the party, highlights of which included a joint karaoke singalong with the home fans, who were all incredibly complimentary about our support and behaviour throughout the trip.
While I understand the concern over our flailing league results, and the long-term implications of Premier League survival are far more significant than our Europa League campaign, it seems a tad early to talk of binning off our continental trips entirely. They have been brilliant for the fans, creating memories that will last a lifetime, and the players, too, seem to echo this. Hopefully, we can build on a respectable enough point against Leeds to revitalise our domestic season, and we can look ahead to our journeys to Milan and Brussels in a more relaxed frame of mind.
I think most fans who have been on these away days would agree that it feels like they exist in a bubble; no one soaking up the atmosphere in the beautiful historic squares we’ve visited would be sat glumly ruminating on the relegation battle waiting at home. This may change, of course; if our form continues to decline, a difficult conversation could be required about completely deprioritising our continental campaign. For now, though, let’s continue to back the Lads to turn this slump around and continue to cherish these fantastic memories that will last a lifetime.