I’m here to give you a very important public service announcement: The 10- to 15-step skincare routine you’re doing to calm your acne is a bit excessive. Ask any dermatologist, and they’ll tell you that simple is better when it comes to acne, whether it's whiteheads, blackheads, or hormonal acne. “Using too many active ingredients at once—like layering multiple treatments with AHAs, retinoids, and benzoyl peroxide—can be too harsh and irritate your skin, which can end up making breakouts worse,” says dermatologist Margarita Lolis, MD. “It’s often best to keep it simple. All you really need is a gentle cleanser, a treatment product, and a noncomedogenic moisturizer, along with sunscreen during the day.”
That said, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all routine for everyone’s acne. “Your skincare routine should be adjusted based on the type of acne you have,” says Dr. Lolis. So where should you start? Well, you’ve come to the right place. If you’ve got zits, welcome to Cosmo’s full guide to the best skincare routine for acne. You’ll learn what causes acne, how to treat it, and figure out a basic routine that will help clear up your complexion.
What causes acne?
Acne is caused when your pores get clogged with acne-causing bacteria, dead skin, and excess oil (which is triggered by hormone fluctuations). “Fundamentally, everyone’s skin is the same—everyone experiences hormonal fluctuations, oil production, and acne-causing bacteria in their skin that could cause a huge breakout at any time,” dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, previously told Cosmo. But some people’s oil glands are more sensitive to those triggers, simply based on their genetics, causing more frequent inflammation and breakouts, Dr. Gohara added.
What is the best routine to get rid of acne?
If you have acne, your skincare routine should include three basic steps—cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF—but you can also include a few others to help exfoliate dead skin, kill acne-causing bacteria, and/or bring down inflammation. See below for a full dermatologist-recommended skincare routine for acne:
1. Remove makeup at night
“For topical ingredients to absorb properly, you need clean skin that’s totally free of oil and grime,” Dr. Gohara says, meaning you’ve gotta start your routine with a clean face, no matter how tired you are before bed. No, a sad little face wipe doesn’t cut it. (In fact, using one can actually lead to more breakouts on acne-prone skin.) Use a cleanser to remove all the gunk that accumulated on your skin during the day.
Side note: If you’re a makeup wearer, I highly suggest double cleansing—which is when you first use an oil-based cleanser or cleansing balm to break down your foundation and eye makeup (so long as the oils are noncomedogenic, they shouldn’t clog your pores, but try a patch test first to be sure) and then use your gentle cleanser to rinse everything away. This is way more effective at cleaning your pores and dissolving heavy makeup than a face wash alone.
2. Wash your face
Washing your face in the morning is actually up for debate—as in, some derms don’t think it’s a requirement. For those with dry skin who find cleansing in the morning to be a lil stripping, feel free to try swiping a toner pad or simply rinsing your face with some water before proceeding to your next step.
Now if you’ve got oily skin, you probs want to rinse all the oils off your face that accumulated overnight before going in with the rest of your routine. You don’t have to use a specific acne-fighting wash, though, which can potentially be drying if used twice per day. Instead, stick to a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser—it’ll dissolve excess oil, dirt, and bacteria without leaving your face tight or irritated.
3. Apply an acne treatment
Now’s the time to incorporate the serums, gels, and spot treatments to help get rid of your zits. The morning is the perfect time for active ingredients like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide, the two gold standards for acne. Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) that dissolves the excess oil and dead skin cells that lead to clogged pores.
Benzoyl peroxide, on the other hand, helps kill acne-causing bacteria on your skin and in your pores to help reduce clogs and inflammation. Opt for a 2.5 or 5 percent formula if your skin is sensitive (10 percent tends to be v drying but can be great for very oily skin types).
At night, though, Dr. Gohara says the best acne treatments are retinoids, especially if you’re dealing with cystic acne. “Retinoids speed up and regulate the shedding within your oil glands, kind of like a crossing guard that keeps things moving,” she explains. “Without it, the glands get lazy, they don’t shed, they get plugged, and the bacteria starts feeding on the plug to create a zit. But if you keep the shedding regulated, the bacteria doesn’t really have anything to feed off of.”
Dermatologists often prescribe tretinoin, the strongest form of retinol. It’s basically the crème de la crème of acne treatments if your skin can tolerate it. If not, though, try adapalene, an over-the-counter retinoid that’s strong enough to smooth skin texture and reduce breakouts without being as harsh as tretinoin. Just make sure to start small: Smooth a pea-sized drop across your entire face once a week for the first week, then twice a week for two weeks before working up to three times a week indefinitely. And always, always, always follow up with a moisturizer.
But if you still can’t tolerate retinoids, try incorporating your morning acne treatment at night instead. In general, if you’re dealing with blackheads or whiteheads, go with adapalene or salicylic acid; and if you have inflammatory acne, like pustules, try benzoyl peroxide or niacinamide, which can help reduce inflammation and discoloration while balancing oil production. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and niacinamide can usually be used daily (and, on non-sensitive skin, sometimes twice daily), but start out using them every other night, gradually building your tolerance to every night and/or morning.
4. Moisturize
“Moisturizer is absolutely necessary to balance your skin’s oil production and keep your skin barrier healthy,” says Dr. Lolis. Yup, this is still true even if your skin is oily AF. To keep your skin hydrated, focus on moisturizers and gel creams that use lightweight hydrators—like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane—and avoid thick creams that are filled with heavy oils and butters, like shea butter and coconut oil.
Moisturizer on its own doesn’t necessarily reduce acne (unless you’re picking a formula that’s packed with exfoliants), but dry skin can potentially lead to irritation that can sometimes cause breakouts or make existing ones worse.
5. Protect with sunscreen in the morning
And of course, no matter your skin concerns or type, you need to protect your skin from the sun with sunscreen every single day, says Dr. Lolis (and the other eight million derms I’ve interviewed in my beauty editor career). FYI: UV exposure from the sun can actually make active acne and acne scarring worse, as well as potentially lead to both premature aging and skin cancer. Make sure the formula you use (1) contains SPF 30 or more, which is the daily minimum recommended by dermatologists; and (2) provides broad-spectrum protection against both UVA rays (the damage-causing kind) and UVB rays (the cancer-causing kind).
If you have oily skin and don’t enjoy the feeling of wearing both a moisturizer and SPF—hi, it me—opt for a moisturizing sunscreen that knocks out both steps.
When should I see a dermatologist for acne?
While two dermatologist-approved the above routine, you should always visit your dermatologist to get their expert opinion on your skin. Because remember—at the end of the day, everyone’s skin is unique and what might work for someone with acne, won’t necessarily be the right thing for you.
“It’s always important to consult with a dermatologist before starting any new skincare routine, especially if you have persistent acne,” says Dr. Lolis. If you can’t see a dermatologist IRL, try a service like Apostrophe, Ro, or Curology, all of which offer one-on-one consultations with dermatologists online for a small fee, even if you don’t have insurance.
What can a dermatologist do for acne?
Dermatologists can help develop a personalized approach to clear your zits. If you have hormonal acne, they might recommend birth control and/or spironolactone, a blood pressure medication that is used off-label to help treat cystic acne. They could also put you on prescription topicals, like antibiotics, retinoids, prescription-grade benzoyl peroxide, an anti-inflammatory medication called dapsone gel, or a topical that targets hormonal acne known as clascoterone.
Along with all of the above, a dermatologist can also suggest potential in-office treatments. Aviclear is a laser treatment that helps shrink your oil glands to prevent acne flares (I’ve tried it, and it really minimized my hormonal acne). When your acne is mostly calmed down, they might intro you to laser treatments like Clear + Brilliant and Halo to smooth uneven skin texture and reduce hyperpigmentation.
Final thoughts
Not to be a buzzkill, but this routine—or any routine, for that matter—won’t transform your skin overnight. Most acne treatments take anywhere from four to 12 weeks of consistent use before you notice any visible results. (Big emphasis on consistency here—using your products sporadically won’t really make a difference.) But just stick with it, and if you can, head to a dermatologist for other treatment options that are targeted to your skin’s needs.
Meet the experts:
- Margarita Lolis, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Skin Laser and Surgery Specialists in New York, NY, Hackensack, NJ, and Hillsborough, NJ.
- Mona Gohara, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at the Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut in multiple locations in CT, as well as an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from vitamin C serums to butt acne. She’s an authority in all skincare categories but an expert when it comes to skincare routines for acne, considering she’s been following one since she was 11 years old to curb her breakouts. She’s also constantly interviewing dermatologists and aestheticians about acne, as well as testing products for Cosmo’s Acne Awards.
Mary Honkus is a contributor for Cosmopolitan with eight years of experience researching, writing, and editing beauty stories. She’s an authority in all beauty categories and geeks out on skincare. For this story, she spoke with dermatologists to bring you the best skincare routine for acne.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.
Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan where she writes, edits, and produces all types of beauty content—from product reviews to personal essays and trend reports. She has covered beauty for more than a decade at Cosmopolitan. Follow her on Instagram.